The prototype for the Linen & Lace Crescent is done!

Because I know someone will ask, I have attached a draft of the pattern at the end of this post. But here are the basics: Seven Sisters Arts Meridian in the Damselfly colorway, one hank (463 yards/100g); US size 5 24" circular needle.

The crescent begins at the top center back. Increases at the beginning and end of every row gently shape the crescent, as the body is worked in alternating sections of linen stitch and eyelet lace.

A knitted bind-off ensures a neat but elastic edge, and a good soak and severe blocking relaxes the linen stitch sections and really opens up the lace:

Although I'm pretty confident that it is accurate, the pattern that follows is a first draft--it has not been testknit or tech edited! Very soon I will cast on to make a laceweight version, and once that is complete I will finalize the pattern and make it available on my Patterns page as a free download. But if you don't want to wait for that, this should be enough to get you started!


By India Tresselt Copyright 2018

The original template for this shawl is the “Terribly Simple” crescent scarf/shawl pattern by Caitlin Ffrench. I adapted and expanded her lovely garter stitch pattern to create a somewhat more refined wrap featuring alternating sections of linen stitch and eyelet lace. This gentle crescent is perfect for that special skein of fine hand-dyed silk or cashmere, or to make or gift for a special occasion. In fact, the impetus for creating this design was so that I could make an elegant wrap to give my nephew’s fiancée, to coordinate with her wedding gown!


Fingering or laceweight yarn, 475 yards / 100g; shown in Seven Sisters Arts Meridian, colorway Damselfly

24” or 36” circular needles, size 5 (or larger if you are a tight knitter; looser is better than tighter for the shawl to drape nicely)

scrap yarn for lifeline (optional)

tapestry needle

blocking wires and T pins recommended



k, knit

kfb, knit in the front and back of the stitch (increase)

k2tog, knit 2 stitches together (decrease)

p, purl

st/sts, stitch(es)

YO, yarn over

yf, yarn forward

yb, yarn back

* *, repeat steps between asterisks



Row 1: k2, kfb, *ki, yf, sl 1, yb* to last 4 sts, k1, kfb, k2

Row 2: k2, kfb, yf, *p1, yb, sl 1, yf* to last 4 sts, p1, yb, kfb, k2

Repeat rows 1 and 2 five more times—12 rows total



Row 1, k2, *YO, k2tog* to last 3 sts, YO, k1, YO, k2

Row 2: k2, kfb, yf, purl across to last 3 sts, yb, kfb, k2

Repeat rows 1 and 2 twice more—6 rows total



Cast on 11 stitches. Begin with linen stitch section (12 rows), then work lace section (6 rows); 1 linen stitch section plus 1 lace section makes 1 linen & lace band. Continue, alternating linen stitch then lace sections until you have 8 linen & lace bands. (HINT: run lifeline through the stitches after each linen stitch section. If you make a serious mistake or accidentally drop stitches, simply remove needle, rip back to the lifeline, return work to needle, and resume knitting,) Work 1 more linen stitch section, then bind off as follows:

K2, slip 2 sts back onto left needle, k2tog, *k1, slip 2 stitches back onto left needle, k2tog*

Cut yarn, leaving 6” tail, and pull tail through last stitch to secure.


Unblocked, the top edge of the shawl will not be straight; rather, it will have a sort of hump in the middle. Blocking will help to straighten the top edge and develop the crescent shape, as well as relaxing the stitches and opening up the lace.

Soak shawl in a small tub or large bowl filled with cool water and a few drops of wool wash. Carefully ball up and remove soaked shawl and squeeze out excess water—DO NOT WRING! Wrap the balled shawl in a large towel and stand or jump on it to squeeze out more water, then unwrap shawl and carefully lay it out flat on blocking surface.

If you have blocking wires, run wires along the top edge, using 2 or 3 wires and overlapping as necessary to keep a firm edge. Stretch and pin this top edge to the blocking surface in a slight, very shallow V shape, then smooth the shawl into a full crescent, gently stretching the work to achieve depth as well as length. Pin the bottom edge, placing pins no more than 1” apart to keep the edge smooth and rounded.

When the shawl is completely dry, unpin it, remove blocking wires, and weave in all yarn tails.